Like most cities, Kuala Lumpur (the locals call it KL) is really a bunch of different neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. KLCC (City Center) is manicured and pristine -- beautiful but in a Stepford kind of way. That's where the Petronis Towers are. They're the tallest buildings in the world and, architecturally, really marvelous. Their rounded shape and multiple tiers make the towers look rather Eastern and mosque-like, which was certainly the intent. Inside is a spectacular mall, six stories and rivaling the most over-the-top shopping emporiums in Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and Palm Beach. All the big names are there -- Prada, Gucci, Armani, Vuitton, Cartier, etc. etc. etc. The vibe in KLCC, as you might suspect, is a little desperate, though. It has the feeling of self-consciousness and of trying too hard to impress. Maybe as it ages -- and as the rest of the country matures -- the area will assume the quiet confidence and urban panache of London, Paris or New York. Right now it's more akin to a well-scrubbed town square in a certain mid-west city suffering from an inferiority complex. Even Epcot has more authenticity!

Burkit Britang Walk, on the other hand, is much more authentically Malaysian. The streets are bustling and alive, like an urban center should be. The area is crowded with sidewalk vendors, commuters and shoppers. Here is where you are likely to find the exotic cuisines favored by the locals -- all of them somewhat mysterious to me and a little intimidating. Once I get brave enough to try some of the foods I see, I'll report back exactly what they are. Let's just say I've seen lots of fish heads and soupy stew-like dishes that smelled pretty stinky! I also, sadly, saw several sedated kittens for sale in the food market -- and I don't think to be taken home as pets. The shopping malls here are really interesting -- they are more like big indoor markets with vendors and merchandisers in small retail spaces. Sort of like U.S.-style malls but with fewer boundaries. They are very loud and crowded and you get the feeling that everything is negotiable. I really liked this part of town and am looking forward to going back.

I'm staying in KL Sentral. Contrary to its name, it is not central to KL. If KL were a mushroom, KL Sentral would be along the stem. It's an interesting mix here. It seems its main purpose for being is the massive train station that connects several train lines and the downtown mono-rail. It also has a very new and very resort-like hotel complex that towers over and shadows the rest of the neighborhood. This is where I'm staying (until the real estate agent that IBM subcontracts with finds me something more affordable for the long-term). All I can say is "ooh la la" -- this place is fancy fancy. It caters more toward honeymooners and family vacationers, not business travelers. I feel like I am staying at some Bahamas resort. All for about US$45 a night. Leaving the hotel grounds and venturing beyond the train station, you quickly see the "real" KL -- pre-construction boom of the last few years. Here, the basic cement structures are crumbling, garbage is everywhere and the poverty of the residents is pretty obvious. It's also pretty easy to see why flu pandemic is such an issue here, given the hygienic practices of some of the local restaurants, such as they are. I was feeling a little feverish just walking by! This is the kind of neighborhood, it seems, the local officials are hoping the new facades in KLCC will mask.

There's a rumor that the white folks live in Bangsar, the next town over from KL Sentral. If that's true, they must never leave! So far, I've seen very few white faces. I now know how black people must feel when they visit Greenwich Connecticut!