Singapore. My new favorite city. Perhaps I just had low expectations, but I had a great trip this weekend. Everyone told me Singapore was just like a typical "western" city. Well, western cities wish! Ok, first off I guess it is kind of a police state, what with the canings and all (in fact, I'm even a little nervous being a tad critical of the place here!) And my libertarian leanings were severely tested by the compulsory use of seat-belts in the back seats of cabs. They make a cute t-shirt for tourists: "Singapore. A Fine City. A Fine for jaywalking. A Fine for chewing gum. A Fine for littering." You get the idea. But still -- what a wonderful town! Yes, the city is clean, but not sterile. It is really beautiful -- they invest a lot in keeping it very green and lush with orchids and palms and other foliage. Here the jungle isn't concrete. And there was so much street-theater going on everywhere -- from kids doing some type of Asian line dancing, to a contest to see how many people could squeeze into a car (a lot), to a percussion performance ala "Stomp."

I went to the Raffles Hotel to soak in a bit of late 19th century British colonialism and trace the steps of famous residents like Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham and Jack London. This is where the "Singapore Sling" was born -- in the "Long Bar" -- and I had to try one -- because I'm a tourist and that's what we do. Now those who have been drinking with me before know I'm not averse to the sweet and fruity drink, but oh my gosh. This drink makes Hawaiian Punch seem bitter. Gin, Brandy, Benedictine, Grenedine, Cointreau (whatever that is), pineapple juice and lime juice. It's one of those drinks where you don't taste the alcohol but you get bombed anyway.
So once I was sufficiently looped, I went on to a night safari at the Singapore zoo. Smart, right? Get drunk and go pet the big cats. They do it really well -- it's probably the closest I'll ever get to a real jungle safari. They must use some sort of invisible fencing because except for a few tigers, leopards and other big cats, all the animals are roaming freely. In most cases, the only thing separating you from the animals is a very shallow moat (the kitties are behind glass). Elephants, hippos, rhinos, boar, lions, tigers, . . you name it. They even had native dancers and fire eaters to recreate the jungle experience! I know, it sounds hokey, but I assure you it was not. It was a really spectacular show!

From there I went to the Boom Boom Room. I couldn't resist a name like that. That, and the drag performers. I may be queer but I'm an Old School queer. The next morning, after shaking off my morning-after headache, I headed out to see the city and to take pictures. I went down to the harbor to look at the boats and from there wandered around the old colonial neighborhood. As I did so, I heard these loud shouts -- like a crowd cheering. Sure enough, as I went to investigate, I found that the annual dragon boat races were taking place along the Singapore River, in a cool part of town called the Boat Quay. Apparently, all these schools, businesses and even local government agencies have rowing teams that compete every year. The team captain sits at the front of the boat (a dragon head at one end and a tail at the other) beating a drum to synchronize the rowers. I stopped at an English pub with tables along the river to sit, eat lunch and watch the races. My first real "western" meal (other than breakfast) since I got here (do Ritz crackers count?). Sunday night, I headed to the bus station and then settled in for the long ride back to Kuala Lumpur. Traffic was heavy and it took almost 7 hours to get back. ugh!

I started a new book -- The Plot Against America, by Philip Roth. (I finished the Kite Runner a few days ago). I don't want to turn this into a politically-themed blog (lord knows, one per family seems enough) but it's startling how the plot and characters in the book mirror current events and certain world leaders. Chilling actually. Reading it, I shiver.

I moved to a new hotel. I was in a Meridien but decided to move to the Hilton. Even though the Hilton is in the same complex I was in before -- the 2 hotels share the same grounds, pools and spa -- it is much more conducive for a longer-term stay. For one, there are many more business people, especially expats, who are staying here. In fact, I made a new friend, Gary, who's another IBMer here on a short-term assignment. He's lives in Hong Kong but is originally from the U.K. He convinced me that the Hilton was a better deal -- and he was right. My room here is really cool. 35" flat screen TV, floating platform bed, gray slate floors and a huge white marble bath. The separate shower has one of those "rain"-type shower heads where the water comes out of the ceiling. And the housekeeper comes in every night and lights an aromatherapy candle that makes the room smell nice. I am going to be so spoiled by the time I leave. Who will light my aromatherapy candle when I am back at home? And who will leave me dates and chocolates on my pillow?

I had the hotel do my laundry. It cost me $550 ringgits, which equals about $150 US. I think I'll find a laundromat for next time. I finally got a new SIM card for my mobile phone so I am able to make calls from my cell. Voice-over-Internet is an intriguing idea but it's not really ready for prime time.

I love Madonna's new video, Hung Up. MTV Asia plays it about once an hour. I wonder if it's getting any play in the U.S. since she's not exactly on the cutting edge of the music industry these days. I don't care -- that song rocks.

Randi lent me The Kite Runner before I left and I cracked it open the other day. What a great book! I'm already about 2/3rds through.

I'm thinking of catching a bus and heading down to Singapore this weekend. It's so close -- it seems silly not to see it. But I'm really more excited about the next trip I'm planning. I'm going to take a Friday off and head out to one of the islands off the east coast of Malaysia -- Pualu Tioman. Just white sand, blue sky, palm trees, a hammock, and pina coladas. A Bali Ha'i fantasy!

Here are the pictures I took last weekend

Jalan Petaling 

Jalan Petaling 

Jalan Petaling in Chinatown 

Jame mosque 

Jame mosque 

Jame mosque 

Jame mosque 

Jame mosque 

Jame mosque 

Jame Mosque, at the Gombak and Klang rivers 

St Mary's Anglican Church 

St Mary's, the Anglican Church 

Government offices 

Government offices 

The British Colonial Officers Club and Polo Field 

Largest flagpole in South East Asia 

Merdeka Square and government offices 

Government offices 

I did some more sightseeing this past weekend and took lots of pictures. But you still can't see them because I haven't taught myself how to get them off the camera and onto the computer. Hopefully I'll do that this weekend.

I saw the part of town that was the seat of British power back when the country was a British Colony. Called Merdeka Square, it has a huge Tudor style building at its center that was sort of a country club for the local British powers. There is a large field in front of the building that used to be their polo grounds. To the left of the square is the train station and to the right is the Anglican church, St Mary's. (yep, Derek, I took pictures)

From there, I visited my first mosque -- the oldest one in the city. Not being Muslim, they wouldn't actually let me go inside, but I was allowed to walk around the perimeter and take pictures. It was beautiful. And very spiritual. There are separate prayer places for men and women and I was able to observe while the prayer was going on. They pray 5 times a day! And I thought once-a-week Catholics were devout!

(In fact, the first prayer service starts at 5:40 a.m. I know because the chanting wakes me up at that time every morning! The chanting is so loud you can hear it all across the city. I need to buy me some ear plugs!)

I then wandered down to Chinatown. There's a huge indoor market there that used to be a "wet market" for seafood and produce, etc. Now it specializes in Malaysian arts and crafts. Some of it was junky but much of it was authentic. I found some real treasures there. I made a mental note that this will be a good place for me to come back and do my Christmas shopping. There is another part of Chinatown called Petaling Street. It is a long street filled with sidewalk vendors. Think of Canal Street in New York but under a huge awning and without the cars. The street hawkers were so aggressive though. They didn't take "no" for an answer. I wanted to look at some of the items -- all knock-offs of course -- but every time I approached a booth, I was assaulted with their pressure to buy something. All the bootleg DVD sellers wanted to sell me porn. I got so frustrated after a little bit I just gave up.

I miss the Daily Show, the Simpsons, and Ellen Degeneres. Thank goodness I can download the latest "Desperate Housewives" and "Lost" episodes on iTunes. Now how come you can't get all programs that way?

Work is going well. I'm really getting jazzed about this assignment. So many possibilities. I'll post more on that next time.

Like most cities, Kuala Lumpur (the locals call it KL) is really a bunch of different neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. KLCC (City Center) is manicured and pristine -- beautiful but in a Stepford kind of way. That's where the Petronis Towers are. They're the tallest buildings in the world and, architecturally, really marvelous. Their rounded shape and multiple tiers make the towers look rather Eastern and mosque-like, which was certainly the intent. Inside is a spectacular mall, six stories and rivaling the most over-the-top shopping emporiums in Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and Palm Beach. All the big names are there -- Prada, Gucci, Armani, Vuitton, Cartier, etc. etc. etc. The vibe in KLCC, as you might suspect, is a little desperate, though. It has the feeling of self-consciousness and of trying too hard to impress. Maybe as it ages -- and as the rest of the country matures -- the area will assume the quiet confidence and urban panache of London, Paris or New York. Right now it's more akin to a well-scrubbed town square in a certain mid-west city suffering from an inferiority complex. Even Epcot has more authenticity!

Burkit Britang Walk, on the other hand, is much more authentically Malaysian. The streets are bustling and alive, like an urban center should be. The area is crowded with sidewalk vendors, commuters and shoppers. Here is where you are likely to find the exotic cuisines favored by the locals -- all of them somewhat mysterious to me and a little intimidating. Once I get brave enough to try some of the foods I see, I'll report back exactly what they are. Let's just say I've seen lots of fish heads and soupy stew-like dishes that smelled pretty stinky! I also, sadly, saw several sedated kittens for sale in the food market -- and I don't think to be taken home as pets. The shopping malls here are really interesting -- they are more like big indoor markets with vendors and merchandisers in small retail spaces. Sort of like U.S.-style malls but with fewer boundaries. They are very loud and crowded and you get the feeling that everything is negotiable. I really liked this part of town and am looking forward to going back.

I'm staying in KL Sentral. Contrary to its name, it is not central to KL. If KL were a mushroom, KL Sentral would be along the stem. It's an interesting mix here. It seems its main purpose for being is the massive train station that connects several train lines and the downtown mono-rail. It also has a very new and very resort-like hotel complex that towers over and shadows the rest of the neighborhood. This is where I'm staying (until the real estate agent that IBM subcontracts with finds me something more affordable for the long-term). All I can say is "ooh la la" -- this place is fancy fancy. It caters more toward honeymooners and family vacationers, not business travelers. I feel like I am staying at some Bahamas resort. All for about US$45 a night. Leaving the hotel grounds and venturing beyond the train station, you quickly see the "real" KL -- pre-construction boom of the last few years. Here, the basic cement structures are crumbling, garbage is everywhere and the poverty of the residents is pretty obvious. It's also pretty easy to see why flu pandemic is such an issue here, given the hygienic practices of some of the local restaurants, such as they are. I was feeling a little feverish just walking by! This is the kind of neighborhood, it seems, the local officials are hoping the new facades in KLCC will mask.

There's a rumor that the white folks live in Bangsar, the next town over from KL Sentral. If that's true, they must never leave! So far, I've seen very few white faces. I now know how black people must feel when they visit Greenwich Connecticut!

I'm inviting colleagues, friends and family to view and discuss my posts. I intend to post comments related to my IBM assignment. Other posts will be about my experiences as a westerner in exotic Southeast Asia. Some of it will be pure "postcard" touristy stuff. Some of it -- hopefully -- will offer observations on culture -- where East and West conflate, conflict, confound and confuse. So -- there's obviously no clear, single mission here. Some of it will be about work; some of it will be about play. Hopefully all of it will be interesting and fun.

I need to figure out how to upload pictures!
Derek lent me his digital camera. As soon as I figure out how to upload the pics, I'll start to post them.

I landed safe and sound in Kaula Lumpur yesterday afternoon -- after probably the longest trip I've ever taken. Eight hours to Anchorage Alaska, then 11 hours to Taipei before changing planes and continuing on the last 4 hours to KL. The flight was uneventful -- my favorite kind. I forced myself to stay awake until 8 p.m. After that I had to get some sleep. Well I conked out and slept for 10 hours -- so hopefully I'm on the right sleep cycle now. We shall see.

Today is a work day -- so no sight seeing today. Perhaps later tonight. I did take a quick trip out to pick up some food and -- funny story -- decided to get my hair cut. It's so hot here -- I can't stand having any extra hair on my head. I stopped at a salon that looked pretty cool -- with some stylish and funky suroundings. The place was small --and empty except for a very tall, exceptionally beautiful Malay woman. She wasn't Muslim since she wasn't covering her head and was wearing some pretty provocative western style clothes. Just a tight, half midriff t-shirt, some hip hugger jeans and some rockin loop earrings. She had that long straight hair so many Asian women do and just a stunning delicate face.

I asked if I could get my hair cut and she nodded and pointed to a chair. I sat down and she sprayed my head with water and began straight away with the scissors -- not saying a word -- not even asking me what kind of style I'd like. After a couple of minutes, she asked me if I was a tourist visiting Malaysia. She obviously didn't get a lot of white guys dropping in to her salon. Oh wow! It was as if James Earl Jones just spoke! I told her I arrived yesterday and was there on business. While I spoke I discreetly looked more closely at her face in the mirror in front of me. Lots of make-up, broad shoulders, and -- right there -- there it was -- the Adam's Apple! Ok, that's cool. I'm getting my hair cut by a hip transsexual chick -- and I notice she's making eye contact while she continues to cut my hair. She asks how long I am here for. I say a few months. She asks if I'm staying with friends. I tell her I'm staying at a hotel. Then it comes -- she asks if I am travelling with my wife or if I'm alone -- while she bores her eyes into me in the mirror. Oh my god, she's hitting on me! I tell her I'm alone, while I look away and tighten up my shoulders just a bit. She takes the hint and finishes up without any more questions. I do have to "pay" for my sin though since she tells me at the cash register that today the price is double the advertised rate -- the sign over her head clearly says hair cuts are $38 ringgets -- because today is Hari Raya. Ok, I know it's Hari Raya and people don 't usually work on the holiday, but she's clearly not Muslim and the salon was open. Don't you think she could have told me she was going to charge me double before she cut my hair? Of well, it's hard to complain. The hair cut was good and still cost me about a quarter of what it would have cost in New York. And I got a funny story to tell to boot!

By the way, today is Hari Raya, the last day of Ramadan, a huge day of celebration for Muslims. Everyone is wearing their bright colorful silk clothes -- defintely not the western wear you usually see. Everyone is in a very festive mood! Although the city is very quiet, since most people have gone back to their villages to celebrate with their extended families.

More soon!